How to pour water under the foundation with your own hands. Robimo do-it-yourself foundation on guint sticks

Since a long time ago, in these areas, which are often subject to flooding, people built huts on sticks driven into the ground. The fires were worked from the decks and driven into the ground manually - the process took a lot of time and effort, allowing the booths to be raised one or two meters and turning the main water out. A pale foundation will often stagnate in these types of situations, if the buildings happen to be on weak soil, which is strongly compressed or small, but on such soil, which is not suitable for a particularly crushed foundation.

Construction of the foundation from hammer pins

The fawn foundation (a photo of which you will find in the entry) is of great importance and is considered one of the most important among everyday life. As soon as you level up the components and the fawn foundation, the technology remains much simpler, as there is no need for labor, formwork, and sinuses. During waking hours finger foundation You can always do without excavation work - the hammers are driven into the soil using special equipment, and for the drilling shafts, the drill bits can be drilled with a hand-held drill bit.

When building a finger foundation, you can always do without earthworks

On any types of soils, even quiet ones, which have impenetrable inclusions, it is possible for the nails to become stuck. Hammers are prepared from wood (mainly coniferous species: cedar, pine, modrina, oak), steel or reinforced concrete. The end of the wooden stick, which is intended for driving into the soil, becomes stuck and is protected with a steel tip to avoid possible damage when driven into the soil. A steel ring is placed on the upper end so that the stick does not break under the blows of the hammer. The bottom end of the fingers made of concrete is also hardened.

Video about fawn foundation

It is quite possible to handle a pale foundation with your own hands, the fragments of which do not have to be removed from the soil: the foundations are driven into the ground with the help of special hammers, devices for pressing, and vibrators. The installed hammers are cut on one level, and the animal is connected with a grillage, which ensures an even distribution of pressure on all the logs.

The fawn foundation can also be prepared from metal pipes and parts, empty in the middle. Its main advantage is that the stench is much lighter than other types of hammer fingers. In addition, they can be driven in even deeper, filling them with concrete for durability. Here the guint palis are brought in with boiled guint smudge, so that they can stiffen at .

How to break bored fawn foundations

To guarantee the integrity of the foundation on soils that are susceptible to heaving, it is better to use drilled piles. Even though this method is labor-intensive and similar to those described above, you won’t have to spend pennies on renting expensive welding equipment: the foundation on bored blocks is prepared by pouring concrete behind the drill holes that are drilled.

The fawn foundation can also be prepared from metal pipes and parts, empty in the middle.

The drilling pin under the foundation can be drilled with a hand drill with a maximum diameter of up to 30 cm and a rod length of over 5 m. Due to the special handling of cutting shovels, the drilling machine generates little force. The required depth and diameter of the drill bit are determined depending on the characteristics of the soil (most often, depths of about 10 m and a diameter of about 20 cm are found).

The further installation of finger foundations from bored fingers looks like this:

  • Throughout all drillings, a cover of several balls of roofing material, PVC lining or galvanized steel is transferred to prevent the sand from being poured into heaped soil during frost hours (the foundation will not be damaged at all) , because the soil is too dry);
  • a reinforcement frame is installed at the surface of the connected rods of reinforcement, 3 pieces each, from the removed rods, a finger is poured to the height of the next grillage - the reinforcement will serve as a good lantern between the stuffed pallet and the grillage, and also In the meantime, there may be a rupture of the foundation as a result of heaving of the soil;
  • The fawn foundation is poured with “important” concrete (with quartz sand or crushed stone of the Georgian rocks), the filling is continuously poured into the core with balls, the concrete is reinforced with joints.

The poured foundation on the scaffolds can only be completed in a month if the concrete piles up.

The poured foundation on the scaffolds can be completed in just over a month, if the concrete remains accumulated.

Design of a grillage for a finger foundation

A fawn foundation with a grillage makes the structure more reliable and durable, adding to its rigidity. A grillage can be constructed from prefabricated reinforced concrete elements, or by pouring monolithic foundation. A fawn foundation with a monolithic grillage is better for independent living, the fragments are more easily poured into concrete, and the bottom is placed on the pale reinforced concrete blocks.

There is a gap between the soil and the lower part of the grillage, so that the soil, when heaved, does not lift the grillage itself, so the grillage is not always allowed to spread out on the ground.

A fawn foundation with a grillage makes the structure more reliable and durable, adding to its rigidity.

The pale grillage foundation is laid out in the following order:

  • formwork is installed on the pallet;
  • in the middle of the formwork, carefully fasten the reinforcement cage, placing small bars under the lower runners, so that the reinforcement is completely embedded in concrete;
  • rods, which are removed from the bored pins, are connected to the reinforcement frame of the grillage for greater reliability of the foundation;
  • The grillage is filled with concrete (just like that).

Fawn foundation: strengths, advantages and shortcomings

Of course, the advantage of the fawn-grillage foundation was: it allows you to reduce the heat loss of the building, since the grillage is not exposed to the frozen ground; changes the level of vibration, which is especially important in areas riddled with highways and slicks; turns off the need for earthworks; results in lower costs, lower Stitch foundation.

Video about finger foundations. Pros, cons and recommendations

However, the fawn foundation is not long enough - it is still possible to read the different opinions of those who chose this type of foundation for their home. For example, one can only mention the fact that the varnishing of the base in the hut is carried out through the raised grillage above the ground: the space between the beams will have to be covered. In addition, the fawn foundation is not sufficiently stable on subsidence and swelling soils.

When choosing the foundation for your home, carefully consider all possible pros and cons in order to praise the correct decision. A fawn foundation can be both an ideal option in one situation and a great benefit in another.

It is difficult to prepare guints, but it is possible. That’s why we have the courage to describe this technology. And to help us for the sake of the FORUMHOUSE koristuvachs.

Let's take a look at the process of preparing the main elements placed on the chair.

Stovbur

The base (trunk) is made of a hollow metal pipe.

For all types of barrels, it is recommended to make them from steel with a grade of at least St. 20 according to GOST 8732-74 (for basic structural steels). If high-quality alloyed steels are selected, then GOST 19281 will be used (alternatively, at home, you can stick to the first option).

The first thing a creator needs to do is to calculate the life of its trunk. With clever “tricks” you will have to figure out at what depth of the living plot there is solid soil. The most correct (albeit expensive) decisions will be taken to the geological exploration service. Among your fellow neighbors, you can find out that there may be a clear indication of the formation of underground strata.

The length of the pipe must exceed the depth of the load bearing ball by approximately 300...500 mm (since the fire is exposed to the ground, which can be larger). People, as a practical matter, recommend working every day from a reserve, so that later they do not have to be increased.

BSergiyM Koristuvac FORUMHOUSE

We screwed 17 pieces (9 by 8 booths). Maidanchik on the slope. Some of the fingers were trimmed, some of them were built up and filled with concrete.

To determine the diameter of the pipe, you can refer to SNiP 2.02.03-85 (with its tables and formulas). For those who are not familiar in practice with the design of civil structures, there are less sophisticated structures:

  • A pipe with a diameter of 47 to 76 mm is vicorized in the presence of light pipes and all kinds of reinforcement.
  • Pals with a diameter of 89 mm can be used when erecting yard fences (arbors, climbing frames, etc.), as well as when erecting fences.
  • For the construction of frame booths and cut frames, there are options with a diameter of 108 mm.

In home washes, do-it-yourself screws with a diameter exceeding 108 mm (as buildings have high vantage) are not recommended. For them you will need a strong shovel, and it will be very important to ensure such a vibration with high strength when preparing it yourself.

Oleksiy Oreshkov Koristuvac FORUMHOUSE

The larger the diameter, the easier it is to work the screw, so that you can split it into a rod.

The minimum thickness of the barrel walls must be 4 mm. Its design is simple - whatever is similar is more beautiful. Ale, picking up the thickness of the wall, remember that the cone had to be bent using a hammer.

Oleksiy Oreshkov

I have earned guints myself, and it is possible to earn money myself. Pipe – 68x4 mm, screw – diameter 168 mm, thickness of the screw – 5 mm, edge of the screw – 50 mm, length of the tip – 150 mm. Everything is well boiled by automatic machine.

Fell guints with your own hands. Cone

As can be seen on the chair, the cone - the fire has fallen. This year's increase is 15 to 2 pipe diameters. This is the standard, but it’s better to spend a little more each day, so that the cone is sharper, and the fire goes into the ground easier.

At home, the cone tends to be either triangular or hexagonal. For this purpose, special sectors are cut at the edge of the trunk, which are bent with a hammer at the cone and boiled.

Brush Koristuvac FORUMHOUSE

Having made a template from a thin paper, first dividing the pipe into equal parts. Then mark the pipe with a marker and cut the splits with a grinder. Viishla is the name of the crown. The thickness of the pipe allows it to be easily bent with a hammer. The pipe came out very tightly, but after welding, all the defects were able to be sealed out, and the pipe turned out to be absolutely airtight, which allowed the pipe to be filled with concrete immediately after twisting.

The axis looks like this in the photo:

Gwent burning with your own hands, prepared.

Like Bachimo, the layout of the barrel was made using a paper pattern. Viconati is easy to finish. For this purpose, the diameter of the pipe must be divided into several sectors. The value has been found - the distance between the upper points of the vessel sectors. It’s easy to transfer the data to a paper chair and print a ready-made template. Further details lie at the curved “crown”, at the bend of the petals and the welded parts.

Before bending the cone tabs, small slits are made in the base of the crown. This will make it easier to form the tip.

Design of screw pins. Shovels

The shovel is the main working part. Prepare these tracks from sheet steel with a thickness of 5 mm. So respect for the beauty of richness and richness. I'm trying to make a 6 mm shovel, but I need to correctly bend such a part to make it more foldable. The shovel material is high-hardness carbon steel (GOST 380-71). It is optimal to use the brand of Art.

Now is the time to talk about the shape of the shovel. The creation of this geometry is the most advanced stage of work. And once the shooting begins, the fire simply cannot be screwed into the ground.

For the cob, it depends on the internal and external diameter of the workpiece for the shovel. The outer diameter of the shovel (width of the pole) is directly related to the diameter of the drill bit. Look at the table.

The internal diameter of the shovel corresponds to the diameter of the pipe. Only the axis of the size of the workpiece (due to the fact that it bends, creating the edge of the screw) is slightly subdivided from the diameter already known to us. A simple solution for determining the dimensions of the workpiece is presented to the FORUMHOUSE portal.

Ergali Koristuvac FORUMHOUSE

Take the pipe and mark the arrow of the screw on it. After this, measure the end of the turn on the pipe, divide by Pi and measure the internal diameter of the workpiece. Add the width of the shovel to the inner radius of the workpiece and subtract the outer radius of the workpiece.

Now a little about those how to make a croque of gwent. Calculate the torque of the screw to 0.2 ... 0.4 depending on the external diameter of the shovel. If the torque of the screw is smaller, then the small solids that are in the soil will get stuck between the shovels, causing them to slip through. If this indicator is larger, then you will have to report more effort for screwing into the ground.

What kind of concrete crumb to lay down depends on what kind of soil the stakes need to be screwed into. It’s easier to focus on the characteristics of the soil: the harder the soil on your surface, the less time it takes to work the screw. On saturated soil (important at the exit from Moscow) the soil life is at its maximum.

Once all the dimensions have been determined, you can proceed to marking the steel sheet and marking the workpiece. To carve the contour of the workpiece, we need plasma cutting with sufficient pressure, and so that it is obvious, follow the step back.

At the next stage, the workpiece is assembled and bent accordingly to the selected screw pattern. At home, it is possible to work for the help of emergency and other helpers.

Koristuvac FORUMHOUSE BSergiyM proposes its own version of attachment for digging out a shovel.

Pali guints: preparation.

Please note that the bend on the cutting edge of the shovel comes out quite small. So get started. It’s enough to bend it so that it burns, like a screw, and goes into the ground.

On this part of the shovel, which enters the ground first, it is necessary to work at a 45° angle. This will help you easily crush the hard mechanical inclusions that are near the ground.

At the next stage, the part is ready to be welded to the stovbur. The seam is laid at the bottom of the shovel. The shovel is welded perpendicularly. In other cases, the soil will be compressed and fluffed up, weakening and weakening its structure. And on a weakened soil, the pala cannot turn around with the attachments placed on it.

The fawn foundation is the basis that consists of vertically installed elements near the ground, interconnected, which absorb the totality of all living desires. Fawn foundations in Russia in the sphere of private home construction began to be widely used 15-20 years ago with the appearance of frame buildings and lightweight piece materials. Today, in the middle of our country, the tenth cottage is built on a finger foundation, and in the ancient and ancient regions of such buildings there are approximately 50%.

Sphere of compaction of fawn foundations

Vibration on the bark of the finger base is complete in the following cases:

  1. The characteristics of the soil at the site do not allow the foundations of the crushed or ground type to be vikorized. Such soils include: peat, swampy soils, unstable loams, heaving soils, forest-like soils, swollen soils, sloughs, etc.
  2. There is a high level of groundwater contamination in the area, as well as the threat of flooding during seasonal floods.
  3. The situation is taking place in a seismically unfriendly region.
  4. In permafrost areas or when the soil is frozen over 2 meters.
  5. The presence of elevation changes in the village, the appearance of a budinka in the village.

On soils with average characteristics, where it is possible to wet the above-ground foundation, choosing a crusty finger allows you to completely speed up the work of earthen and concrete work, which leads to a decrease in the productivity of life. The base on the sticks is especially suitable for wooden, timber and frame booths, as well as those made from light piece materials: foam blocks, silicate blocks, expanded clay and slag concrete. For cottages made of reinforced concrete slabs and ceramic tiles, it is also possible to vikorize the finger foundation, but in this case, as a rule, it is not necessary to press the edges of the supports, but the bushes of the fingers, the structure of which only a professional is to blame for.

Fawn foundation: pros and cons

Advantages of the finger supports that are used as a foundation:

  • versatility, which can be used for a wide range of soils;
  • the ability to protect on earthen and concrete robots;
  • possibility of stagnation on plots with folding relief;
  • minimal level of mechanization, you can do it yourself;
  • high reliability and hopelessness;
  • promptly call whatever the fate dictates;
  • the ability to preserve essential amenities in the area;
  • Low quality of flooring with a slab-monolithic base.

Nedoliky:

  • the need for decontamination;
  • if the structure is incorrect, shrinkage and deformation of the base may occur;
  • availability of basement premises;
  • it is difficult to build on rocky and shallow soils;
  • bonded insulation and yak waterproofing of the ground part;
  • foldability with bindings - connected fingers in a single design.

All the disadvantages of the finger foundation are entirely taken into account when it comes to design, development and daily life. Please refer to the following regulatory documents, which are recommended to be read before starting work.

Expert's Thought

Dmitro Bogdanov

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Regulatory documents for the development of the basics of the finger type:

SP 24.13330.2011 or BNiP 2.02.03-85.
SP 50-101-2004 Design and installation of foundations and constructions.
SP 50-102-2003 Design and installation of finger foundations.

SNiP 2.02.04-88 Foundations on permafrost soils.
SNiP 2.02.05-87 Machine foundations with dynamic reinforcements.
SNiP 3.02.01-87 Earthlings, foundations and foundations.

Types of finger foundations

Currently, the everyday galusa has over 30 options for finger foundations. Almost all of them can be brought to the table combined type, What is formed not only from the underground part - the finger, but also the ground one. The ground part has two main functions: 1) connects the finger supports into a single structure; 2) take up to 50% of the spoilage from the vagina.

Private life has the greatest need for these types of foundations:

  • Pale-slab combined foundation. The ground part is a monolithic concrete slab, in the middle of which there is a reinforcing frame.

Conditioning: for booths made of important materials. It’s better to grow on shallow soils!

Expert's Thought

Dmitro Bogdanov

Professional wake-up call. 18 years of experience

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Advantages: high quality of production.

Nedoliky:

  • foldability of the structures;
  • Great obsyag of concrete robots;
  • the difficulty of the Viconnian;
  • high varity.

The foundation of the fawn-slab type for the vikory booth is rarely completed. The monolithic slab is of great size, so the stones are of great diameter. Such panels cannot be installed manually, so it is necessary to use specialized equipment, which significantly increases the cost of work.

Pale-grillage foundation. For this purpose, both the drilling rams and the screw shafts are assembled, the ground parts of which are connected to each other by a grillage. The grillage material can also be different: wood, metal, monolithic reinforced concrete or precast.

Zastosuvannya: light spores (dacha cabins, gazebos, gospodar's cabins, lazni).

Advantages:

  • ease of installation;
  • minimum of breakdowns;
  • low sobivartіst.

Expert's Thought

Dmitro Bogdanov

Professional wake-up call. 18 years of experience

Ask an expert

Not enough: the number of buildings is small, what does it carry?

The quality and technology of the foundation works with the installation of a palovo-grillage foundation based on the type of pallet and material of the grillage. In many cases, the grillage not only serves as a binder for the toe part, but also absorbs attention from the spores.

  • Pale-stitch foundation. The ground part of such a base is a monolithic or assembled sliding stitch, installed along the perimeter and load-bearing walls of the building. Due to the low cost of construction, durability and labor, a finger-stitch foundation is the best option for a cottage made from light-weight materials.

Zastosuvannya: for frames made of light materials, frame spores.

Advantages:

  • simple and quick installation;
  • minimal use of concrete and earthen robots;
  • the scope of stagnation is wide;
  • low varity.

Expert's Thought

Dmitro Bogdanov

Professional wake-up call. 18 years of experience

Ask an expert

Short ones: not suitable for massive buds

Design and design of fawn foundations

The development and design of fawn foundations is carried out on the basis of these hydrogeological surveys, which determine the type and characteristics of the soils at the site. When carrying out the searches, the most important parameter is determined - the depth of the tines, which lies below the depth of soiling of load-bearing soils and freezing.

During the development of the finger foundation of any type, the following data are established:

  1. Parameters of the finger field. The area between the poles, the diameter of the supports, and their thickness are covered. For a screw foundation, the size of the metal pins, the number and size of the shovels are determined. For a bored foundation, reinforcement is additionally insured.
  2. Depth of laying of the ground part. The fragments and deeply buried types of monolithic slabs and stitches are distinguished. There are also options with a sliding and hanging base. For the skin type, Vikorist has its own method of descaling. In most cases, private living quarters will result in stagnant foundations or a moving base for a wooden booth.
  3. Measure the foundation. The width and height of the wedge stitch or grillage is determined based on the overall dimensions of the base. The development of the economy is subject to constant and timely pressures, the authorities of the regions and so on.
  4. Rozrakhunok end litter. This design is complicated, and it is impossible to create it on your own. With spiral pins on thick soils with normal physical and mechanical characteristics, the shrinkage for 2-3 surface booths is no more than 1.5%, which can be achieved without paying for it to the designers. However, if the cottage is built in folding hydrogeological basins, on swampy soil or in a seismic-proof zone, then the soil will deteriorate.

The result of the development of the project foundation on the pillars, which you created independently, is a chair or a diagram that indicates the location of the placement of the wooden supports, with the arrangement of the cut edge, the parameters of the floor and the ground part: slabs, stitches or grillage.

Technology for patching finger foundations

The technology for building foundations on pallets for all types of foundations is the same:

  1. Installation of finger supports.
  2. Tying the heads of the fingers and lining the ground parts.
  3. Insulation and waterproofing.
  4. Improvement of the basement, paving and drainage.

Regardless of the type of pallor-combined foundation chosen, the work of its installation will begin with clearing the territory and planning. If necessary, dig a pit or a trench under the crushed foundation, and lay out the cushion support.

Installation of a finger foundation: installation of supports

The instructions for installation will vary depending on your skin type. Most often for a private cabin, shed or mansion, these types of fences are used:

  1. Gwent fell. Viruses are produced by a virus-making plant, producing their own sizes and varieties. To produce screw supports, metal alloys with different characteristics are used. The most durable and expensive are galvanized parts. The supports are very easy to install. The stinks are screwed into the ground, without any prior control of the sverdlovin, and the heads of the animal are welded to them.
  2. The drills fell. The support is placed directly on the budmaydanchik of the previously prepared drill bit. Drill hulls are characterized by durability, low durability and significant load-bearing properties. The foundation of the bored type can be installed independently, without buying supports. How to make foundation stones with your own hands is described in SNiP 2.02.03-85.

After the installation of the supports is completed, the heads are aligned in height and connected to each other into a single structure with a binding path.

Bonding the fawn foundation

To tie the fawn foundation, you can use timber, metal fibers, and if you go with a massive structure, then a reinforced concrete or metal grillage will be used to tie it up. The choice of type and material is bound to lie in the mass of the booth and material, for whatever reason, finger supports, type of ground part.

  1. Binding with timber is used for wooden and frame booths. To connect the pins to the framing beam, it is necessary that the heads be metal, so the connection is also important for screw supports.
  2. The channel ties are sealed to be made from piece materials. The channel is welded to the heads of screw pins or special metal heads of drilled supports, creating a rigid structure that provides increased strength and durability.
  3. Tying with a profile pipe is only possible for light budinochkas and gospodarsky budivels. The technology of tying in this case repeats the design with a channel, but instead of a rolled metal roller, an empty thick-walled pipe is twisted.

It’s important to remember the binding that is used to connect the drilled pins and the monolithic ground part. And here two parts of the foundation are connected with additional reinforcement, creating a reinforcement structure. The swifts communicate with each other by force and by welding in accordance with the previously established scheme.

Pouring the ground part of the finger foundation

The ground part of the fawn base is a slab, a stitch or a grillage. All elements of the design variation can be either prefabricated or monolithic. Prefabricated structures are infrequently assembled due to their high durability, the need for transportation and a short distance for installation. lifting mechanisms. Monolithic spores can be easily produced independently, and Pokrov's instructions By pouring the ground part of the finger base, there is little to be done for the slab, stitching and grillage.

Installation of formwork. In order to pour concrete, concrete or concrete formwork is installed. The design is designed to visibly vitrify the concrete mass. Particularly useful for the formwork of a pallet-slab foundation, which is made up of many parts.

  1. Armuvannya. A reinforced frame is installed in the middle of the formwork, tied with reinforcement bars. The configuration of the reinforced frame depends on the type of base: for grillage and finger-stitch foundations, reinforcement is provided with later reinforcement rods with transverse inserts. For a monolithic slab, the reinforcement is formed like a mesh.
  2. Pouring with concrete. The formwork with the reinforced frame installed in it is filled with concrete of the selected grade. Filling follows the basic rules, depending on the type of base.

After the concrete has hardened, the foundation is ready and you can proceed with insulation, waterproofing and maintenance work.

Strengthening the finger foundation

When you wake up in the morning, the food often comes up about the need to strengthen the foundation. You can add one or more elements:

  1. Pale supports. In private life, the most popular type of reinforcement of the toe is the lashing of the reinforced sole - heels for bored supports.
  2. Grillage. The reinforced grillage is framed with metal channels or coils, which are usually welded on the bunds of a new building.
  3. The whole foundation. Strengthening everything to the foundation - labor and the road is unhappy. Since, during the daily life of the cottage, there was a need for a stronger foundation, then, for all that, the initial expansion was carried out incorrectly. Most often, there is a growing stagnation of old foundations, which for some reason have reduced their building value.
  4. Soil around the surface of the ground part. The addition of thick soil is carried out if the thickness of the upper weak ball does not exceed 0.5 m. If its thickness is greater, then the ground part must be completely raised above the level of the earth.

Nutrition for strengthening the finger foundation should be determined at the design stage. In this case, it is necessary to remember that it is possible to give additional support to the support.

Waterproofing and insulation of finger foundations

Waterproofing is necessary for any foundation. The choice and hardening of waterproofing should be based on the base structure, for example, for a fawn-grillage foundation with vicorized metal fibers or timber, the best option would be to coat the waterproofing, which is applied to the heads of the fingerboard element. and binding. Rolled waterproofing is suitable for reinforced concrete slabs, stitching and grillage: the material is placed on the place where the supports and ground parts are pressed together, as well as on the surface.

When the concrete foundation is poured, regardless of its position until zero level, the structure will draw heat from the building and be blown by the wind. In fact, the felt base itself will require clear thermal insulation, with which only the ground part can be insulated. There are a lot of options and methods for insulating finger foundations. The simplest and cheapest is thermal insulation using Pinoplex slabs. Many manufacturers produce product lines bearing the “Foundation” badge. The insulation slabs are fastened in the middle, along the sides of the monolithic stitch.

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When choosing insulation for the foundation of a wooden hut, it is necessary to give preference to materials with a low flammability class (NG grade) to ensure fire safety.

Another solution for creating reliable thermal insulation for the foundation is polyurethane foam (PPU), which is sprayed. This is a completely new method of insulation, which has a number of advantages: tightness of seams and joints, moisture resistance, durability. The only downside of PPU is its greatest versatility. In order to insulate the fawn foundation, according to all the rules, it is necessary to comply with SNiP 3.01.01-85 and SNiP III-4-80.

Improvement of the base and paving for the fawn foundation

One of the disadvantages of a finger foundation is the absence of a full-value base. For moving and hanging stands, the role of the base is played by the false base, and for sunken stands - the ground part of the base. The most popular way to close the space between the base of the booth and the soil of the raised fawn foundation is the target masonry. This option is suitable for booths made of piece materials or timber. For masonry, it is recommended to use a ceramic base, which has excellent moisture resistance and durability. You can immediately vicorista decorative target Or apply plaster to the animal or otherwise improve it. Today's markets for hardware materials demonstrate a great choice of options for making a plinth for any budget: piece and natural stone, tiles, facade panels, etc.

The false base will require insulation, so for this lining you choose materials that highlight the importance of thermal insulation and decorative finishing.

For a private budinka, vimoshchenya is very important, because it is the mother’s fault that he suffered a small mistake. Paving is necessary for the following reasons:

  • preventing fall from penetrating under the foundation;
  • putting soil on the fingers;
  • change in the ruinous action of heaving soils.

The cream of this paving gives a completely natural look. The width depends on the size of the booth: the larger the booth, the wider the pavement. The minimum width is 0.2 m. The pavement is insulated using high-density insulation slabs. The paving material can be different: concrete, tiles, stone, granite. The most commonly used option is the traditional one - paving slabs. If the pavement plays a role as a path, then place a ball on the concrete.

How much does a fawn foundation cost?

A pale-colored combination foundation, which you can create with your own hands, is one of the cheapest types of foundation for a cottage. The quality of the structure lies in the type of pallet and ground part. Economical optionє fawn-stitch foundation on bored supports. Washing the base on screw pins will cost more per unit of purchase of ready-made metal supports.

You can open the construction by adding all the materials that will be assembled to assemble the structure. The easiest thing to do is to use the special “Foundation Calculator”. When choosing the type of basis for your work, remember that the value of your work (work + materials) should not exceed 30% of the value of the entire work.

Of great importance to everyday life is the choice and maintenance of the foundation. This means that the strength of the constructed object depends entirely on the reliability and value of the base. When choosing this type of varnish, consider the surface of the bed, the characteristics of the soil and the financial feasibility of the owner of the plot. Washing of the finger foundation is especially effective in heaving soils, which are susceptible to deep freezing, and are more than 1.5 m. About how to build a fawn foundation with your own hands, we know from this article.

As with any other structure created by human hands, the fawn foundation has both advantages and shortcomings. Let's take a closer look at them.

The merit of the design deserves respect:

  • Simplicity and high speed of everyday life.
  • Competence is relatively low.
  • The relevance of the search for the minds of the heaving soil.
  • Possibility of independent creation.
  • All types of foundations can be built independently from time to time.

The disadvantages of this design are:

  • If you are going to be great, then the foundation will not be suitable for the foundation. This can be used only for the construction of lightweight wooden frames, foam/aerated concrete, etc.
  • It is not so easy to unravel the palm foundation. To be safe, it is better to ask a specialist to carry out precise examinations.

The most important feature is the material for making fingers. Well, they are crying out loud:

  • Behind the shape there is a cut - straight and round.
  • The material is wood, concrete, metal or reinforced concrete.
  • Behind the scale is Peretina/Dovzhina Square.

Based on the method of burial, the fire is divided into types:

  1. Drilling lube concrete. The reinforcement is laid in an already prepared drill and filled with concrete.
  2. Gvintov. They are made from metal. The bottom of the pali guesses the shape of the feint. The entrapment in the ground is consigned to the assistance of the surrounding forces. You can work on your own or use specialized equipment.
  3. Zabivni. As the name implies, the type of finger is driven into the ground using special equipment.
  4. Drilling and drilling rams. Once the drill has been prepared, a frame made of reinforcement is laid, which is then filled with concrete. For drilling fingers, the process looks like a mistake.

A fawn foundation may or may not have a grillage (solid-concrete beam) in its structure. As soon as the grillage is assembled, it is placed directly on the pallet. In this way, the waters will be evenly distributed.

Then a combined foundation is prepared. For example, stitch-finger. It looks like a predictable grillage, but it’s not great height. In addition, when the foundation is built with a fawn-stitch foundation, the grillage may be buried in the ground.

Zastosuvannya

The pale foundations will stagnate in commercial and private everyday life. You can’t do without it on weak soils, but:

  • heaving;
  • humus/peat;
  • soft-clay sloughs;
  • plastic clay/loamy soils;
  • wood-like soils, which lose stability when wet.

The fawn foundation should be transferred to a larger surface of solid soil that should be lowered.

This foundation on thick soils significantly changes the use of earthen work, so it is often robbed in many minds. Wait a minute, it’s easier to drill the holes under the bottom of the pit. In this case, you will need to spend less money and effort on importing valuable soil.

Along the perimeter of the bored foundation, drill holes from the stand between them, which is 1.5 to 2.5 m in height. Consider the depth and diameter of the pins (200 to 250 mm). Next, a waterproofing material is installed at the core, then a reinforcement cage, which is then filled with concrete.

The algorithm looks like this:

  1. At the first stage, marking and reshaping of future fingers is carried out. The stench is mainly due to the stench of the cabin, under the long sections of the walls on the rise of one type, close to 1.5-2.5 m-code.
  2. Next, take a garden drill and open a hole in the ground Ø200-250 mm, at which point its depth will be 300-500 mm lower for freezing the ground.
  3. At the bottom of the drill holes, create a gravel-packed pad of 100-300 mm.
  4. It is necessary to lower the roofing material burned into the pipe or any other waterproofing material necessary to insulate the fire from direct contact with the ground to the bottom. For example, a good replacement for roofing felt can be an asbestos-cement pipe or PVC.
  5. Next, the reinforcement cage is installed. The wine is prepared with 3 or 4 metal rods Ø 10–12 mm. They need to be tied together with a soft knitting dart. If the grillage is transferred, the reinforcement will fall by 150–200 mm. If the lower frame of the booth will be laid directly on the poles, then the reinforcement will fall 40-50 mm from the lower part of the upper part. When this is done, place the studs for further fastening of the strapping.
  6. After these steps, prepare the drill bit by pouring concrete in batches, firmly compacting it, for example, with a vibrator or a wooden club, plastering the concrete with it.
  7. After these manipulations, the grillage is covered or the lower frame is laid.

The screw shafts are made of metal pipes, which are equipped with shovels at the bottom and a sharp tip. The shovels themselves are:

  • welded;
  • We cast the tip onto the visible surface of the geoscrew;
  • richitkovymi.

The diameter of the fingers varies from 57 to 133 mm, and the length from 1.65 to 3.3 m-code.

To install the fingers, markings are made around the perimeter of the future booth, as described in the previous section, and then their installation is completed. You need 2 footrests, two screws are screwed in, and you need to control the remaining verticals.

I’ll first screw the trace along the corners. To ensure that the centering of the screw shaft is accurate, small alignments should be made at the center of the screw. Then the panel is installed vertically. In these technological openings, a block proportional to the diameter is inserted. Slices of pipes are attached to the beam on both sides, which will serve as a destructive force. If you need to screw in a pole with a diameter greater than 89 mm, then the truss will best replace the suspension of a vintage car. So you will see greater value.

Now you will bury the guint stick in the ground with the wrappings. It is buried 300 mm below the level of frozen ground. It is not recommended to rush the screwing process, as the screw fragments will fall exactly vertically. This display can be verified by schema or everyday comparison. To tighten the vertical, place it at 2º in the direction of tightening the screw pin and have to screw it in another place. Fail, however, because this will destroy the pattern of finger alignment.

To screw the poles into the shallow soil, otherwise you can dig into greater depth self-contained device from cutting the pipe, which has an internal diameter larger than the external diameter of the pipe. You need to put it on the finger, press the steel finger at the technological opening of a congruent diameter. Then the pipes at the loop need to be compressed, with the help of which the pipes are screwed.

After screwing the remaining poles, reverse the height of their above-ground part. All the upper bases of the fingers are in one horizontal plane. It’s easy to check this indicator, just use the leveler/water level. All ingredients need to be checked, and then verified with a grinder.

The internal space of the walls will be filled with concrete. In this way, its value is enhanced, and the internal space is also protected from corrosion. Before the skin, you need to weld the head, which is a square-shaped steel plate. The head of the pin, which has a diameter of 89-133 mm, can have a size of 250×250 mm. Then the foundation is tied.

In addition, it is necessary to combine all the fingers into a single structure, so that the attention of the booth is evenly distributed among all the fingers.

The frame needs to be rolled out if it hangs above the foundation by more than 600 mm. In addition, this approach should be carried out as soon as the booths will be released from the target using gas/foam concrete. The frame itself can be made from various materials, such as timber, a reinforced concrete grillage or channel.

The frame behind the additional beams is laid when constructing small wooden booths and frame structures. In these types of situations, the beam becomes stiff, which cuts across 150x150 mm. Secure it to the fingers with loops of soft steel dart.

The timber is covered with adhesive and is installed on a hydroisolating material. This can be done using bitumen-polymer roll waterproofing. In this case, all metal elements are first coated with a moisture-proof farbe, and wood with an antiseptic.

Vandruti/banish can be connected in two ways:

  1. Vlashtuvannya plastic hinge Gerber.
  2. We cut them on the fires with a mow cut or a straight stick. When this is done, cover the place with boards, like nailing flowers.

The plastic Gerber joint allows you to create a less sensitive wrap until your fingers sag. In this case, it is necessary to create a subsurface external frame for the foundation. The internal cores of the frame are made from single beams 150×150 mm. Run it together with galvanized steel plates-clamps/bundles and galvanized bolts.

In such cases, the binding is tied with a channel. Then lay the metal profile on the pallet. In this case, for this fastening, the stud bolts/outlets of the rod fittings are transferred. The channel is immediately welded to the studs. If you have installed metal poles, you can weld them directly to them.

In order for the metal elements to be less susceptible to corrosion, they need to be exposed to special warehouses/waterproof membrane.

Pouring a reinforced concrete reinforced belt

Grillage is another type of framing. Since the base is intended for the construction of a booth with the purpose of either gas/foam concrete, then a reinforced concrete reinforced belt is the only correct option for binding. Wine can be assembled or monolithic. The remaining option is most often stagnant.

At the top of the poles along the perimeter of the base of the booth, formwork is installed, after which roll waterproofing is laid on it. Then a reinforcement cage is installed before it, after which the whole thing is filled with concrete. Size the grillage to be laid out in a place where the wall and your booth are to be used.

Screw in the fingers

Since it is not advisable to work on concrete with concrete, it is not a terrible time to build the foundation of the finger joint, especially when screwing the screw fingers. There are no obvious differences in the installation of the finger base, and there is no inflow. The only thing that needs to be treated is the stage of freezing of the soil. Since the ground is frozen solid, you won’t be able to screw the poles in on your own.

To protect against heavily frozen soil, at the beginning of the foundation phase, collect snow right in front of the cob.

The tying of the foundation in the winter is carried out using vikoristanny channels or timber. It is problematic to build a yellow, concrete grillage in the cold season. In the winter, it is necessary to drain the concrete mix from stagnant warm water, and add a plasticizer to the warehouse, which increases the flatness of the concrete, prevents it from freezing and accelerates the process of slumping. After pouring, the grillage will need to be insulated to ensure normal conditions for hardening the concrete.

Well, you can build a foundation entirely on your own. If you do not have enough instructions, we suggest you familiarize yourself with some video materials that will clearly show you the sequence of these processes. If you are running out of information on a topic, then ask it to our expert, who will kindly give you additional explanations.

Video

This video is about the peculiarities of the guint finger foundation.

And this video is dedicated to the finger installation process.

To create a low-surface booth on fluffy soil or swampy soil, you will need instructions for installing a finger foundation with your own hands. This type of base is optimally suited for heaving and loose soil. The installation process involves installing the pins at a depth below the level of freezing.

Different types of finger bases

Depending on the material that is used during extraction, the method of installing finger foundations is divided into:

  1. To create a finger-and-screw foundation, you must screw the pole into the ground using special equipment or manually. This option is suitable for all types of soil under the hour of setting up a private wake-up call;
  2. The pale-hammered type of base rarely stagnates in everyday life Zamiskih Budinki, through high varity. This is due to the fact that its installation requires special equipment, the rental of which is not available to everyone;
  3. The pale-drilled option is economical due to dryness and has an easy installation process. It is this type of foundation that is most often robbed by the rulers of the future private office.

Before starting the daily process, it is necessary to complete the markings and add materials. To properly mark out the plot and carry out the de-framing, it is necessary to request a specialist in order to avoid any damage.

Materials

For independent construction of a bored finger foundation, the following is required:

  • Skloplastic and metal fittings with a diameter of 1 cm;
  • Cement Rozchin;
  • Sumish from sand and gravel;
  • Drill with a diameter of 20 cm;
  • Betonozmishuvach;
  • Formwork (metal pipes, plastic or asbestos pipes), or roofing material;
  • Covering boards made of coniferous trees for the preparation of formwork;

Approximately the number of materials and materials can be calculated after the expansion of the depth and area of ​​the foundation, depending on the future use under the hour of operation.

Finger foundation technology

The foundation for the construction of a drilled finger foundation lies in drilled holes, installation of reinforcement with further pouring of concrete excavation. This process can be completed independently by following a description of the technology.

Prepared in Sverdlovsk

While calculating the number of drill bits required, remember that the maximum diameter of a hand drill is 30 due to the possibility of adjusting the rod up to five meters.

In the robotic process, the shovels of the drill are rotated so that a minimum of force is required to prepare the drill bit. In the modern market you can find a system that allows you to work with a drilled base on an expanded basis. This form allows you to install a heel, thereby protecting the number of supports and damage. During installation, it is necessary to drill holes 50-60 cm in size, and thoroughly drill the drill, which works against the electrical circuit or motor.

When starting to drill holes along the previously formed marks, be sure to check the soil at the depth of opening the openings. If there is a discrepancy in the appearance of the root or stone, they must be removed, otherwise, the drilling points must be moved. The depth of the boreholes is lower than the depth of soil freezing in your region.

Having finished preparing the drill bits, you can proceed to the installation of the pins:

  1. At the drill hole, install a pipe that matches the diameter. You can prepare them from roofing felt in the following way: burn the material in a tube and place it in a hole so that it exceeds the height of the opening by 25 cm.
  2. If there is water at the bore, which fills it up by 25%, it is necessary to pump it out later;
  3. To ensure rigidity of the stops, it is necessary to place three corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm in the recesses. at a distance of 5 cm, one side of the other and clamp the crosses together - with a 4mm dart. Their height is responsible for the height of the grillages by 2 cm;
  4. Having finished with the frame, you can proceed to pouring concrete with a grade no lower than M-300. After filling the 50 cm ball, tamp the mixture with a vibrator.

The gradual installation of the pins will ensure maximum strength and reliability of the future structure.

Installation of grillage

Installation of the grillage is carried out in stages:

Before further work on the foundation, you can start in a month and finish waterproofing. To do this, cover the surface with a ball of bitumen mastic, fix the surface with roofing felt, then mastic and roofing felt. Where preparation is important is complete.

Video: The drills fell. Installation. Technology. Pristriy

Pickup

Before you close the fawn foundation with a fence, you need to build the walls. The fence is a design designed to block the space between the beams under the grillage. Installation of the intake significantly increases the flow of heat into the cabin, stops the penetration of snow and water under the cabin and makes the cabin visually appealing. For this purpose you can use frames, concrete slabs, stone, wood or basement siding.

For optimal price and strength, the boards are 2.5 cm thick. They should be fastened either horizontally to the points behind the dowels, or vertically. In another option, you need to excavate a shallow trench along the perimeter in front, pour sand into it and lay a beam with a crossbar of 5 * 5 cm with a later groove for the boards. The beam must be secured behind the metal corner to the stop. Before installation, all wooden elements must be treated with a special antiseptic. Paving with this type of foundation is not covered, but for decorative purposes and for strength, paving slabs can be laid around the perimeter.

Cutting for installation of finger base

There is a great deal of advantage and availability and it is not always possible to vikorize the finger foundation at wake-up time. For what purpose is there a number of boundaries, about what traces of knowledge:

  1. First pour the fawn foundation under the booths, it is necessary to move it so that the soil is not subsiding or swelling. For this purpose, you will need to go to a special laboratory to conduct a fundamental analysis;
  2. Due to the obvious fawn foundation, it is impossible to plaster the base, which requires the installation of a fence.

When starting to independently prepare a finger foundation, it is necessary to carefully consider all the pros and cons, understand the technology and the intricacies of the installation process. In this case, the base of the cabin is reliable and can be used without repair.